![]() ![]() I'm not sure what the rest of your layout looks like, but I'd consider adding a couple of USB outlets and a 12 volt plug in too. I like your diagram- looks like you have lots of thought into it! Good planning is invaluable. Orange: AMI Fuse blocks, 40A, in and out of Renogy DCDC30, location not accurate Green: Renogy DCDC30 - I intend to cut out the area behind it so the cooling fins have 360 air access. I decided to begin the box so that I can do most of the 4 AWG wiring in my work area, rather than kneeling in the van. The rectangle on the upper left side is the back of a 110 AC receptacle, just adjacent to the Dark Blue inverter. With both switches off, factory system is isolated. Any setting leaves power to the Renogy DC-DC charger. Red 1: Batt1/Batt2/Off to select House/Factory AGM/Off. Green: AiLi Battery Monitor (for house battery) The three round faces on the right side are as follows: The front and top pieces will get some sort of amplifier luggage locking hardware. The bottom corners are fingerjointed and glued. The yellow vertical center panel is removable, and has a cut-out around the battery for future upgrades (200Ah LiFePO4). The middle shelf slides into 5/16 deep grooves in the vertical side panels, leaving about 2.5" behind for wiring runs. 32" x 22 1/2" x 11 1/4" The middle shelf is 8 " wide to allow cooling and wiring runs. This is page 8 of the attachment, the grey wire is the entry point where I put my (red) smart alternator ignition sense wire for the Renogy 30A DC-DC Charger/MPPT.įun, but it took a good while to find the contact springs, so I'm glad it is done.Īny comments on my power box? It will sit about a foot behind the driver's seat against the sidewall. Anyway, after the crimp, the assembly snapped (with a nice click) into the back of the EK1. The "contact spring" is actually the out positive leg fuse holder clip for the 15A ATM mini-fuse. ![]() ![]() In my case I chose to use Terminal 61, which is on with engine running, rather than on with ignition. I used a cheap Gardner Bender GS-388 to crimp the bare wire connector, as all my other crimps are insulated. It only took two tries to get a clean crimp - the contact springs crimps both the wire and the insulation for strain relief. I also bought several $11 versions from Arkansas Freightliner on Ebay. The were very reasonable at about $3 a piece. I think it's a Freightliner/Sterling cross-over P/N. I found the infamous "contact springs" for the EK1 fuse box from, part # 0115458026, or A011-545-80-26 per the parts manual. I routed the wire under the passenger entry step and fished it up the B-pillar internally, across the headliner and back down to my power box area behind the driver's seat. I wound up getting my ignition sense power for my DC-DC Charger from the EK1 module, per the BEG guidelines. Is there anyway to connect to separate battery circuits to a single monitor (without two shunts and another switch)? My concern is whether, even with the second house battery positive isolated by the A/off/B switch, connecting both battery negatives to the shunt will foul up the current flow through the shunt/measuring device (even though there is not a complete circuit to whichever battery is off). I would dearly like to connect both battery negative cables to the shunt. Assume also I've got the requisite fusing figured out for each battery positive cable. I have both batteries positive going into an A/off/B switch, and the second house battery grounded back to the factory auxiliary battery via a bus bar. Assume the second house battery is an identical 95Ah AGM battery. I am trying to avoid the need for two separate battery monitors. My designed and purchased but not installed setup uses the factory driver's seat aux battery and a second house battery. I am in need of guidance on my battery monitor install. ![]()
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